Topkapi Palace & The Hagia Sophia

Not quite time adjusted, I woke up on Day 1 very early and very hungry... and quickly found out that not much happens in Istanbul before 8AM. I took a brief stroll through the same crowded streets we were on the night before only to find them empty and a few people sleeping on couches inside the cafes.

Thankfully, a bakery resided just around the corner from our hostel and I popped in to get some bread. It kind of looked like a soft pretzel, but was much better and was coated in sesame seeds. Yum!


Finally others started rousing and we enjoyed some breakfast where me met a very sweet gal from England, Emily. She was waiting her for her boyfriend to arrive later that day so she joined Julianne and I for our morning exploration... Topkapi Palace was our first stop.

I don't pretend to know much about the significance of this place, but I can tell you that it is very popular (as you can see by the mass of people walking through the gate). Some pretty important people lived here at some point.

We liked to imagine how it would have been as children running through these large gardens with your very own breathtaking view of the Bosphorus each day...






Just outside the palace walls we found the famous Hagia Sophia. Now, this was one of my favorite 'museums' that we explored... let me explain why. 

1) IT WAS HUGE!! -- really it was built to be the largest church cathedral by (can't remember) in I think the 6th century.

2) IT OOZED RELIGIOUS TENSION: I will explain this in the next few pictures.

3) IT WAS THE FIRST SITE WE WENT IN: After seeing a bunch of different buildings and mosques, my interest level waned a bit.

When the Hagia Sophia was in its Christian hay day there were magnificent frescoes artfully covering the walls. These frescoes all included Jesus, some with the Virgin Mary and others with some of the Apostles. This particular one has the emperor (I believe) bowing down to Jesus' feet. To me, this is a beautiful expression of humility and how we are meant to worship the Lord.

However, in the 13th/14th century a new Muslim empire conquered Constantine and took over the Hagia Sophia as their place of worship and power. These frescoes were covered over and almost lost completely. Gaining control was a sign to them that God was with them and was fulfilling some of the prophesies they believed in. (I can't remember exactly what it was, but it had something to do with the sun and the view of the world... which is perfect from this location).

 **On a lighter note, there were cats EVERYWHERE in Turkey and the Hagia Sophia was no exception. President Obama apparently pet his particular cat when he visited Turkey.

Now the building is more of a museum than a mosque, a palace or a cathedral, but it contains elements of all of these things and they are all right on top of each other... this was quite striking.

This seat was for the emperor... I place of power and some people have considered emperors gods themselves. Behind this seat, you can see the Arabic writing on the black paint, which I have no idea what it says, but there were large black paintings similar to these strategically placed around the ceiling of the building.


*And, you can see another cat!

We walked about 20 feet and found this gate that signifies the direction of Mecca. When the building was a mosque the people would say their prayers facing in this direction.





However, the fresco revealed above it is of the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus. It was almost as if Jesus was watching the mix of power, Islam and Christianity... it was comforting, powerful, and a bit eerie.



We walked throughout the rest of the structure taking in the history and art before heading out to explore some more of Istanbul. Quite a full morning.

Relating with a good friend

Not only did Julianne and I spend our time experiencing and learning an new culture, we also connected deeply and shared important aspects of our lives with one another. One of thing things that we discussed and  I have been contemplating recently is femininity and what it means to be a woman... this has been something that I have struggled with my entire life.

I'm not quite sure why my journey with these issues has been more challenging than most, but it might have something to do with some of the following... wanting to be so much like my brother, idolizing my father, never wanting to be too emotional, experiencing emotional and sexual abuse, struggling with my body image, being married to a wonderful man, having a hard time starting a family and being part of Christian community where my views don't necessarily align on gender roles...

what is a girl to do?

Well, thankfully when Julianne was moving to Armenia she left me with a box of books that have been in my extra bedroom since I got them. I knew I was going to be on a plane for at least a day, so I needed something to read and I picked up the book, "Ruby Slippers" by Jonalyn Grace Fincher.

I ate up the first third of the book on my way to Istanbul and then continued to read it as we traveled throughout the country. Although, I may not agree with every word, reading this book was like drinking a tall glass of water for my soul. I passed it back to Julianne when I was finished and ordered another copy for myself. I am now looking for other daring women of faith to help me process some of this further. Any takers???

Thanks to Julianne for processing so much of life with me already!

Getting Acclimated

After our relaxing dinner we wandered around town to get our bearings and take in some of the night life. One big tourist attraction is to see "The Whirling Dervishes"... this photo is as close as we got, as going to one of the shows is fairly expensive and the dancing is supposed to be meant for a religious ceremony rather than a gawking audience. Its still hard for me to picture such a stoic human whirling around... I guess I'll never really know how they do it.

Do you want to smoke some shisha? (Water pipe) We partook only twice while we were there. Apple-mint and Watermelon Flavors. I will say that the first couple breaths taste exactly like a jolly rancher, but then the tobacco starts to sink in and its not quite so yummy.

Before heading back to our hostel (Tulip Guest House) for the night we hit the shopping scene.  All around there were a variety of 'pants', skirts, and dresses... I thought this looked like a one piece, but apparently most people wear it as pants. Julianne thought this was hilarious and so did the store owner. However, (to my credit) I will say that I saw a another woman trying on the same thing in the same way... she was also a shorty!

 

*A word on the hostel-- We very much enjoyed our stay at the Tulip. Matin & Enis were welcoming and helpful. In fact, Matin was the one who took us to see how the locals hang out. He thought it was odd that I would rather have wine than smoke, and I settled on drinking sage tea that evening. 

However, the accommodations were simple. Julianne and I had our own room, but it was quite small and we shared a bathroom and shower with the other guests (which was never a problem).  

There were 3 floors and the stair well was rather tight and scary for someone who stumbles. *I do not think they have the same building codes that we have in the US... But, breakfast looked out over the Bosphorus and held a beautiful view for our morning wake up session. 

Istanbul with Julianne

After taking a long hiatus from blogging, I am have been re-inspired by my recent travels through the amazing country of Turkey. I hope to give you a glimpse into the very special adventure that Julianne and I got to share 7 time zones away... yes, I am still recovering.

My husband was a little nervous about how two beautiful women would fair in a foreign country, but the reality was that the worst of the harassment I received was by an American at the DC Airport before even leaving for the trip... Drunk men are not attractive, nor do listen very well when you remind them several times that you are married... Thankfully this was the only sketchy encounter I faced.

We stayed in the "Sultanahmet" region of Istanbul, which is pretty much code for "Tourist Area". We could walk to all of the major historical and religious museums and sites, which was very convenient, but not necessarily "authentic Turkey". We did meet some locals who helped us discover what Turkey was all about though and I realized that I might be more of a 'tourist' that I would like to admit...
1) My luggage says "American Tourist" on the label
2) I wanted to go to a cafe that served alcohol, food, and where you could smoke hooka (or shisha) - apparently the one stop shops are only for tourists, Turks only drink tea when they smoke the hooka (which just about everyone does).

The first night Julianne enjoyed great conversation over a delicious meal at the Metropolis Cafe. It was such a joy to connect with one another and discuss our lives while sipping good wine and watching cultures collide in front of us.

Anger and Judgement

One of the main things that I struggle with God on is the wrath issue and how, especially in the Hebrew Scriptures, God chooses to deal with sin and rebellion... often from my perspective God seems 'mean'.

I am currently reading Amos... 

Then, last night I went to a meeting with other folks who are working to combat human trafficking, specifically trafficking children for sex. This happens in Raleigh. There were several points in the meeting where I wanted to burst into tears or hit someone. 

The sheer reality of our sin and brokenness is overwhelming.

And we are all a part of it.

I wonder if these reactions in my soul were a tiny glimpse into the heart of God. Sin leads to death... real consequences now... we can see it all around us... God intended a different reality... God wants to make things new...  

I can't even begin to understand the anger and sorrow that our creator must feel. 

Justice needs to happen. 

We need to be a part of that. 

Amos reminded the people of Israel and Judah, "Away with your noisy hymns of praise! I will not listen to the music of your harps. Instead, I want to see a mighty flood of justice, an endless river of righteous living." (5:23-24) 

God was pretty much telling them that if things didn't change

 they were going to be intensely wiped out.

I'm thankful that through Jesus we are forgiven already, but now we are somehow a part of God's plan for reconciliation... and Jesus will come back and judge later...? I still have a lot of questions on how all of this fits together... 

I am content with the mystery. 

For now. 

But, what I do know is that our sin is serious and its important to deal with it. 

Lets us this Advent Season to reflect and prepare for our Lord and King to come. 

How might we be floods of justice and an endless river or righteous living? 

My new "oranges"

I just discovered what I like to call M NEW ORANGES... 

Some of you may remember the paper I wrote about Oranges... I wrote it for my college applications and maybe another one for an essay in English class or a testimony or something like that... 

Anyways, the gist of it was... I was having one of those no good, very bad days, UNTIL... I bit into a delicious orange that awoke my senses and gave me a fresh perspective on the joy of flavor and brightened my day... 

Its the little things :) 

Then, in college I was kind of ANTI- Flowers, especially via boyfriends... so my roommates gave me a bouquet of oranges wrapped in packing paper for my birthday. It was beautiful and DELICIOUS! 

So, what could take the ORANGES place... 

Amazing Pomegranates! 

There is just something fabulous about biting into one of those seeds that brings a smile to my face: EVERY SINGLE TIME!! How did all of that powerful juice get in there? Its totally worth making your kitchen counter look like a massacre occurred to get to the beautiful pellets of delight. 

If you haven't tried one before... just do it. You will be amazed! But, be careful not to squirt the juice in your eye because according to my father in law during our Thanksgiving meal... it stings a lot!  

What little things bring you joy?? 

Reminders of Grace

In the midst of reading through Kings and Chronicles in the Hebrew Scriptures I was getting a little frustrated and disappointed in God and the people of Israel and Judah.

Every story seemed to include destruction... smiting people for disobedience, lots of pain, seemingly arbitrary hardship, overwhelming pride, all ending in judgment... 

I was having a hard time reconciling the how the God I believe in, represented mainly through Jesus and the stories of redemption could be the same yesterday, today and forever; if these stories are true... 

Does this every happen to you? You find something out about God or life that doesn't quite make sense? You don't know what to do with it? You aren't sure if you buy the whole package?

Well, it does to me.

So, I usually just start talking to God about it... "What the heck? How do you expect me to make sense of this?"... then with a subtle act of grace the next item on my reading plan is: Jonah. 

You should read it yourself, but this cute video is another way to get the picture. 

The story of Jonah from Corinth Baptist Church on Vimeo.

I'm sure there are many layers and points to this story... but, for me it was simple reminder from the Holy Spirit... "I am full of Grace and desire repentance." 

I heard God saying...  

"See, I AM, the same yesterday, today and forever. I have always wanted forgiveness, I have always provided ways for people to repent and am in the business of using people, like you, my child, to make things new. You see, its not so much about the destruction as it is about the recognition of who I am and the sweetness of grace that humans encounter when they turn to me. Don't count me off... I am the same, and so are people... all forget me or push me aside, but I am longing to embrace them (and go way out of my way to provide a way for this to happen)... even for the scary ones from Nineveh, even for the self centered prophets like Jonah, even for you and your friends."